Wings

17-04 LE Stiffeners

The LE Stiffeners have to be cut to length and match drilled to match the LE Skins. A line is drawn down the flange a prescribed distance from the edge. I had made a little…


17-03/04 Leading Edge Skins

Splice Strips Two Splice Strips have to be cut away from the tank skins. These strips will have nutplates attached & be riveted to the root rib of the LE’s so the tanks can fastened…


17-02/03 Leading Edge Rib Preparation

As usual a few steps in the manual involve hours of work, since there are 14 ribs to be deburred. The flanges at the rib noses need to be rounded off to reduce the tendency…



16-03/04 Left Wing Top Skins & Nutplates

I shimmed and clamped the left wing spar to the bench as before to ensure the structure was a true as possible before clecoing on the wing skins, using the laser level and digital level…


17-02 Leading Edge Cradles

I’ve been distracted the last couple of days due to our shower springing a leak … had to resort to some DIY! But I did find an hour to make the cradles for the wing…


16-04 Machine Countersinking & Nutplates

Rather than rivet on the nut plates and then machine countersink, I decided to use the technique I had used to install the wing spar nut plates So I used the same tool I had…


16-04 Stiffeners and Outboard Aileron Bracket

The long wing stiffener is attached first, and then the short one. Vans word this … “Place the wing box J-stiffener – long on top of the J-stiffener – short.” They are correct of course,…


16-03 Riveting R Wing Top Skins

Having applied JC5A to all the mating surfaces, I clecoed on the R Top Skins. Lots of clecoes, but it felt good to start assembling the wing : ) Vans suggest that you use a…


16-03 Preparation for Riveting Top Skins

As I’ve mentioned previously, the spars are flexible with no skins attached, and Vans do stipulate that they should be clamped to a work bench, shimming as required. They don’t actually say to make sure…