Section 35 – Upper Fwd Fuselage – Preparing Parts

Well here we are, back to more deburring! I decided to prepare most the parts before any riveting, so as usual this involved reading ahead and making sure all the dimpling and machine countersinking got done.


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I dimpled the Fwd Fuse Rib flanges with the squeezer …


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… and used the DRDT 2 for the F-01455 Sub Panel.


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I clecoed the sub panel onto the Forward Top Skin to check if the flanges needed initial fluting, as advised in the manual … not much is my feeling, since there are only two curved tabs with more than two holes.


Wiring Channel

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Lots of flanges on the Wiring Channel, but easily dimpled with the squeezer.


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The lower tabs have to be bent outwards to match the tunnel angle.

I cut a card template to match the angle where the tunnel meets the firewall, and then after bending using this as a guide, checked the angle by clecoing in place.


Seal Angles

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Care is needed when deburring these Seal Angles since they are easily bent!


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When reading ahead you discover that a bead of sealant is run along the edge of these when the Fwd Top Skin is installed … so I masked off these areas prior to priming & painting to ensure good adhesion.


Instrument Panel Frame

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This is made of quite thick aluminium, so needed a substantial deburring.

I found it best to anchor it in the vice when filing etc.


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Then lots of holes are machine countersunk.


Instrument Panel Flange Doubler

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This doubler is also machine countersunk … but since the depth of the countersinks are about the same as the material thickness, I decided to make a little template incorporating a pilot hole.


Fwd & Aft Canopy Decks

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This was the first time I had met a part which needed a tab trimming off, but where the manual made no mention!

Pretty obvious I guess : )


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The Canopy Decks are clecoed in place, and then the longerons are final/match drilled.

The edges of the Decks have to be kept flush with the side skin as this is done, so I came up with a scheme to clamp using hardwood blocks.

All seemed to work out … there were a couple of areas on two of the decks where they were a smidge proud after adjusting etc, so after the drilling I just gently removed 2 -3 thou on the fine scotchbrite wheel to make them exactly flush.


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Then I used a hand drill to countersink the holes in the longerons.


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Then dimpled the holes in the decks.


After all this prep it was time to prime.

I also decided to paint these parts with my 2-pack cockpit grey, since some will face the elements when the tip up canopy is open.

Now I have lots of bits to rivet together … !!


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