Canopy Hinge Assemblies
It’s a straightforward job to set these rivets using the squeezer.
As always I find the secret with the squeezer is to keep the workpiece well supported.
Riveting the Canopy Hinge Assemblies to the Canopy Frames
No chance for the squeezer for these.
I came up with this clamping technique to keep it all rigid for setting the -4 rivets.
Using wood blocks helped to keep the bucking bar in the right place.
I’d taken time setting all this up since I feared hassle setting -4 rivets in such a flimsy workpiece.
A couple of LP4-3’s for some reason : )
Similar setup for the Mid Canopy Frames.
Forward Canopy Rail Bases
You are asked to rivet the single outboard hole in each flange.
Because the flange tabs are quite thin, I used the “grommet” technique to keep the tab flat.
Worked a treat actually : )
I jigged up the assembly like this to keep it all stable when squeezing the 426’s.
Left and Right Forward Canopy Frame Assemblies.
Aligning & Final Drilling
Left and right sides clecoed together, with the temporary C-01442A Forward and C-01442B Mid Canopy Fixtures.
I gently drew the C-01417 Canopy Frame Close-Out over the rounded edge of my bench to form the curve.
Once it’s all clecoed together, there next job is to check the assembly is not twisted.
Out came the digital level. I attached a strip of wood to the level so it would sit flat on the Forward Canopy Rail Bases.
The structure is easily adjusted to achieve zero twist.
There is a very precise order to follow when final drilling the specified holes.
You’ll need 3/32″ and 1/8″ drill bits. I guess the holes are initially drilled undersize to ensure everything stays as true as possible until they are final drilled later.
I’ve mentioned that the assembly is easily adjusted to remove any twist. Of course this means it is probably just as easy to inadvertently twist the thing as you are drilling.
So I monitored this as I drilled, and tried not to disturb the setup … hopefully all OK??
We’ll see later I guess.