38-16 to 17 Riveting the Canopy Assembly & Frame Close Out

Top Skin

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Here are the C-01402 and C-01403 Canopy Frames clecoed together, JC5 on the tabs and ready for attaching the top skin.


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See further down in this post to see how I clamped the structure to secure it for riveting.

The riveting with a rivet partner was straightforward using the usual tungsten bucking bars … just a couple of awkward rivets on the hinge assemblies shown here which needed the “Boot” bar.


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Once the Frame Closeout is clecoed in place, you have to check that the relevant holes align with the C-01442A & C-01442B Canopy Fixtures without any sideways tension. One of mine needed a gentle tweak to accurately align so the cleco fitted with no resistance.

Then the C-01428 Canopy Frame Splices are final drilled, which I did with a reamer again.


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An easy job to set the LP4-3’s, using the usual wedge on the top row.


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The C-01404A Support Flange Splice is riveted with NAS1097AD3-3’s. These have a small countersink manufactured head. The manual suggests …

” For aesthetic purposes, position the flush manufactured head on the splice and use a domed rivet set on the shop head”

Hmmm … so I used a 470-3 rivet set to back rivet, and it actually worked out well.

These 4 shop heads will be visible at the top of the instrument panel.


Canopy Frame Closeout

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This stage took a while since there is a very specific final drill & rivet order.


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In addition Vans recommend you check for zero twist every 4th rivet.


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This is the bit of top advice in the manual about this!


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The wedge is needed by the hinges.


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I tried the squeezer to set the C-01403 rivets, but due to access issues just couldn’t get reliable results.

So I ended up bucking them.


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My small Tungsten Bar fitted well.


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This picture shows how I clamped up the structure for both the top skin attachment and when setting the C-01403 rivets.


The last job is to set the CS4-4 rivets in the Close Out flanges.

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