38-03 Reaming & Tapping the Roll Bar

Once the #40 holes are match drilled in the Roll Bar, they are opened up to #36 ready for tapping.

The #36 reamer worked well for this job … in fact I was nearly relaxed doing that bit!


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The 6-32 Tap is quite small, and I found it difficult to control accurately with the usual yoke handle.

So I came up this little tool … a disk of plywood!

I’d read horror stories about taps breaking off … this would cause a shed load of trouble!


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I needed some method to prevent the tap rotating in the wood, and happened to have a little spanner which fitted just fine : )


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I found it best to clamp either side of the hole whilst using the tap.

The lubricant mentioned in the previous post seemed to help a lot when doing the tapping in the Plexiglas, helping to remove the swarf.

But small cuts, then frequently backing out is the name of the game here.


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Compressed air gets the swarf out.


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There is again a specific order of tapping, but basically you start at the top and work down each side symmetrically, lightly inserting a screw as each hole is completed.

Eventually it’s done!


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Before removing the window, the front of the F-01431D shim is marked with tape, so you’ve got a datum to trim up to.

Then all the holes are opened up to #27 ready for countersinking.

The reamer worked well.


When the window is on the bench it is very ungainly and awkward to manoeuvre for reaming.

I ended up reaming lots of the holes “up in the air”, and used a wooden block to stabilise the job.

Again, be careful if using the reflection to judge the perpendicular, especially on the more curved sections.

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