Once the #40 holes are match drilled in the Roll Bar, they are opened up to #36 ready for tapping.
The #36 reamer worked well for this job … in fact I was nearly relaxed doing that bit!
The 6-32 Tap is quite small, and I found it difficult to control accurately with the usual yoke handle.
So I came up this little tool … a disk of plywood!
I’d read horror stories about taps breaking off … this would cause a shed load of trouble!
I needed some method to prevent the tap rotating in the wood, and happened to have a little spanner which fitted just fine : )
I found it best to clamp either side of the hole whilst using the tap.
The lubricant mentioned in the previous post seemed to help a lot when doing the tapping in the Plexiglas, helping to remove the swarf.
But small cuts, then frequently backing out is the name of the game here.
Compressed air gets the swarf out.
There is again a specific order of tapping, but basically you start at the top and work down each side symmetrically, lightly inserting a screw as each hole is completed.
Eventually it’s done!
Before removing the window, the front of the F-01431D shim is marked with tape, so you’ve got a datum to trim up to.
Then all the holes are opened up to #27 ready for countersinking.
The reamer worked well.
When the window is on the bench it is very ungainly and awkward to manoeuvre for reaming.
I ended up reaming lots of the holes “up in the air”, and used a wooden block to stabilise the job.
Again, be careful if using the reflection to judge the perpendicular, especially on the more curved sections.