The “aft fairing line” is lightly scribed onto the canopy 7/8″ aft of the front edge. Since I don’t have any calipers, I made the equivalent from a compass & pencil : )
Protecting the canopy area aft of the “aft fairing line” with a double layer of quality electrical tape proved harder than it seems … it was very difficult to see the lightly scribed line!
I used Scotch Super 3M Vinyl Electrical Tape, which is only available in black.
A little 2″ template is used to work out the position of the “forward fairing line”.
Then side templates are cut from a sheet supplied in the finish kit.
These are positioned using the C-01418 Canopy Skin as a datum, and provide the “forward fairing line” position at the edges.
The snag is … you can’t align the both edges of the templates at the same time.
So I first aligned the front, which then matched my marked line perfectly …
… and then aligned the bottom to judge the very edge line.
Then more Scotch Super 3M Vinyl Electrical Tape to mark the “forward fairing line”.
The manual gets you to apply a double layer of tape, so I used white vinyl tape over the black. I think this may be useful when sanding the fibreglass, since this will be tinted black.
I tested the 3M tape on some scrap Plexi to check if the adhesive caused any issues … after a week no problems.
At the edges the Plexiglass is shaped so that the 2″ template can reach the skin without rocking.
I achieved this using the furniture scraper and a sanding block.
Having marked the line where the canopy meets the Canopy Skin, it was time to paint the glare shield.
Lots of masking up to protect the existing paintwork.
I decided to use a specialist anti-reflective paint … I’ve seen it used on glider glare shields to good effect.
It’s called NEXTEL Suede Coating 3101, and is available in various colours. This is “S139 Dark Black” : )
Interestingly, it’s not quite as black as “90FH Black”??
I don’t think we’ll see any reflections from this … it’s as matt as a matt thing, only matter!