Although the front of my canopy seemed to lie down along the front quite well, I decided to attach more than the minimum 3 clips.
I used a Dremel drum sander to make the little indents in the Plexiglass for the clips to sit below the surface.
I placed some scrap aluminium under the tool to protect the Canopy Top Skin!
I attempted to match drill #30 through the clips, but found it difficult to hold the clips and prevent movement.
So I ended up match drilling #40 first, much less jeopardy.
And then opened up the holes for the CS4’s seperately.
This indent profile seemed about right?
Vans say that the clips will form as you pull the pop rivet, and it worked just fine.
I used my brilliant pneumatic pop rivet gun.
You remove the weights to decide where it’s best to put the clips, but when installing them I put the weights back on.
No need to do this I suspect, since as you set the rivets you apply downward pressure on the clip ensuring the canopy is sitting down on the skin.
So here goes with the Fibreglassing!
I’ve done very little of this, so the videos on the Vans web site are invaluable.
Having thoroughly scuffed the canopy edge and Top Skin, I was ready to mix up the Epoxy Resin and Microballoons.
I used the suggested pigment to darken the mixture … it doesn’t need much! Even though it looked black when wet, after sanding later it was more grey. But it’ll be fine to prevent an unsightly view along the bottom of the canopy from the cockpit.
I used the pneumatic syringe that I’ve been using for the tank sealant to run a bead along the wedge.
The Vans suggested zip-lok bag with a corner cut off would probably have been easier in hindsight.
I used a lollipop stick to try and smooth the material into a roughly correct profile.
I was worried that too much excess resin/microballoons would cause a lot of work to sand off, but actually it proved easy to remove with 60 grit sandpaper.
I used a small wood block, being careful to avoid scuffing the tape.
You might notice I haven’t yet completely scuffed the top skin ready for the fillet.
This is because I’ve read it might be best to scuff just prior to epoxy application to avoid oxidation, ensuring the best bond?
Who knows, but it sounds plausible. That’s the trouble, isn’t it? Lots of tips available on the web, but trying to decide the best advice is a challenge.
Probably exactly what you are thinking when reading this! : )
I used the same Epoxy that Vans demonstrated in the videos.
You have a choice between FAST (205) or SLOW (206) Hardener.
I bought the FAST 205, which was just fine for the void filler, but having seen how quickly it starts setting I think the SLOW 206 will be best for the fillet job.
So I’m going to have to wait a few days until yet another web order gets delivered!
Anyway, here is the void all complete, masked up & ready for the fibreglass fillet layup.
Just the final scuffing to complete as previously mentioned.