The holes in both ends of the Gas Springs have to be final drilled to 1/4″ … I used my 1/4″ reamer
Then a quick little job to attach the forward ends, ensuring that after you’ve nipped up the AN316-4R nut the struts can still rotate freely.
I hadn’t realised how many jobs the W-00026 template would be used for (don’t loose it!) … here it is again, this time as a jig for the Canopy Release Mechanism.
I managed to clamp it together for drilling, but not very securely. Got the job done though.
I opened up the hole in stages … it’s quite hard to accurately drill into a cylinder I’ve discovered, even if you have centre-punched etc.
I used the suggested 3 pieces of paper between the Pivot Block and the Arm whilst clamping, which seemed to work out just fine.
I had trimmed the Pivot Block as specified in the manual using a sharp craft knife.
I came up with this cunning method to ensure the holes at either end of the pushrods were drilled parallel.
After clamping the rods to a flat surface, by gently scraping a set square along …
… this produced lines as a datum ready for centre punching at the specified points.
I then used a block of wood with some channels cut that I’d used for something else … this provided secure support for the rods.
I fine tuned the lengths on the vertical sander.
Centre punched …
… then drilled. I again opened up the holes gradually with smaller drills.
After inserting one of the MS20392-2C13 pins, I discovered it would sit on its flat top, providing an ideal way to use the set square technique to mark the slots at right angles to the holes.
I cut the slots by hand … then filed to size.
You need a thin file (less than 1/16″) for the smaller slot.
Here we are, the pushrods completed.
Hopefully never to be needed in anger!!!
I think these doublers end up as a clip for the canopy hinge covers.
I used my deburring tool to countersink for the AD2 rivets … they are very small !
Similarly in the Top Fwd Skin … hmmm, more double flush riveting coming up.