Well here we are, back to more deburring! I decided to prepare most the parts before any riveting, so as usual this involved reading ahead and making sure all the dimpling and machine countersinking got done.
I dimpled the Fwd Fuse Rib flanges with the squeezer …
… and used the DRDT 2 for the F-01455 Sub Panel.
I clecoed the sub panel onto the Forward Top Skin to check if the flanges needed initial fluting, as advised in the manual … not much is my feeling, since there are only two curved tabs with more than two holes.
Lots of flanges on the Wiring Channel, but easily dimpled with the squeezer.
The lower tabs have to be bent outwards to match the tunnel angle.
I cut a card template to match the angle where the tunnel meets the firewall, and then after bending using this as a guide, checked the angle by clecoing in place.
Care is needed when deburring these Seal Angles since they are easily bent!
When reading ahead you discover that a bead of sealant is run along the edge of these when the Fwd Top Skin is installed … so I masked off these areas prior to priming & painting to ensure good adhesion.
This is made of quite thick aluminium, so needed a substantial deburring.
I found it best to anchor it in the vice when filing etc.
Then lots of holes are machine countersunk.
This doubler is also machine countersunk … but since the depth of the countersinks are about the same as the material thickness, I decided to make a little template incorporating a pilot hole.
This was the first time I had met a part which needed a tab trimming off, but where the manual made no mention!
Pretty obvious I guess : )
The Canopy Decks are clecoed in place, and then the longerons are final/match drilled.
The edges of the Decks have to be kept flush with the side skin as this is done, so I came up with a scheme to clamp using hardwood blocks.
All seemed to work out … there were a couple of areas on two of the decks where they were a smidge proud after adjusting etc, so after the drilling I just gently removed 2 -3 thou on the fine scotchbrite wheel to make them exactly flush.
Then I used a hand drill to countersink the holes in the longerons.
Then dimpled the holes in the decks.
After all this prep it was time to prime.
I also decided to paint these parts with my 2-pack cockpit grey, since some will face the elements when the tip up canopy is open.
Now I have lots of bits to rivet together … !!